Apparently, loafers are having a moment. I am puzzled by this because the loafer is the perfect shoe. How could it ever be out of style? Picture Michael Jackson without his black loafers and white socks in "Billie Jean." Any movie from the 1950's would be missing something without loafer-clad characters. Loafers were de rigueur in Lisa Birnbach's The Preppy Handbook. The good-girl Sandy wore them in the movie "Grease." I cannot imagine my wardrobe without my loafers.
Some history: Maine shoemaker George Henry Bass was a leather-tanner who began making shoes in 1876. The first Bass loafer, or "Weejun," was modeled after a shoe seen on a trip to Norway. Every film set in the US from the 1940's to the 1960's seemed to feature the loafer as the ultimate American footwear. I can only think of one other American shoe to be as important: the Converse sneaker. Converse was worn by athletic preps and grungy punks. The loafer is at home in any setting, from casual to dressed up, unlike the sneaker. To me, the penny loafer is a casual shoe when done in brown or oxblood, and looks a touch more dressy when done in black. There is something effortless about dressing up and adding a more casual shoe to bring everything down a step or two.
Plenty of designers have taken the loafer for a fresh spin. You can
picture Fiat magnate and most-stylish-man-on-the-planet Gianni Agnelli wearing Tod's Gommini, the loafer-moccasin hybrid in luxe
suede with the signature pebbled sole. Marc Jacobs made a patent version of the loafer with a chunkier sole that reminds me of Patrick Cox's Wannabe loafers from the 90's.
Loafers look great with striped or colored socks, but I like them best worn over bare feet. The Bass loafer is not only well-made and reasonably priced, it is incredibly comfortable. This is the same shoe I wore when I was in my early teens and now wear in my 40's. How many shoes, besides the flip flop and the ubiquitous Converse, can make this claim? Would you even want to share your closet with shoes you wore as a teenager? Lately I have been wearing the Bass tasseled loafer in tobacco brown, a more dressed up version of the penny loafer. The next pair I will add to my wardrobe will be the Wayfarer pair in black and white, a nod to my love of ska.
Nothing beats the Bass Weejun for style, comfort, and versatility. The loafer is a shoe to take you anywhere.
Here is Michael Jackson singing "Billie Jean," wearing signature black Bass loafers and silver socks. Jackson headlined the celebration for Motown's 25th Anniversary in Pasadena, California in 1983. Not only was the first appearance of Jackson's Moonwalk, but I think it is the loafer's finest moment: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=michael+jackson+thriller+live+1983
L'Artisan Parfumeur's Premier Figuier Extreme. Photo: Kneale Culbreath
Are you a sweet person or a savory person? If I had to pick sweet or savory as my go-to for a treat, sweet wins out every time. Never mind that 'cheese' was my first word, and when I was little I could easily snack on olives, pickles, and saltine crackers all day. But if I had to choose as a child, I really loved sweet things: a homemade brownie. Nutella on a baguette. Pie. But a plate of figs? This would not be my choice, even though I loved fruit. Fig Newtons, yes. Plain figs? No. I loved Fig Newtons because they smelled of vanilla and the biscuit exterior was as soft as velvet. From my view as a sugar-obsessed kid, fresh figs seemed more like a punishment than a treat. Full of seeds and no cookie? I don't think so. So good for you and full of fiber, too! I would have rather eaten a box of raisins or a sweet-tart Granny Smith apple.
Despite my early dislike of plain figs, my tastes changed as an adult and I grew to love the fruit. I love the tiny, crunchy seeds and the vanilla-sweetness of the fruit. I became something of a fig fan, especially for fig scents. I discovered a few fig perfumes that really make me happy: Diptyque's Philosykos (and the matching candle), which to me smells like a fresh fig crushed with the leaves, sap, bark, and earth; Pacifica's Mediterranean Fig, a plain, unornamented fig; Body Time's Green Fig Oil, smells of green dried figs, quite heady and rich; and Olivia Giacobetti's L'Artisan Parfumeur's Premier Figuier, the first fig perfume in which fig leaves are combined with almond milk and sandalwood.
The follow up to L'Artisan's Premier Figuier, Premier Figuier Extreme, is for sweet lovers. I translate Extreme to mean concentrated. After the first spray, I get a blast of intense fig, followed by coconut and almond milk. The perfume also includes notes of fig leaves, gorse flower, stone pine, and dried fruits. Instead of thinking of Premier Figuier Extreme as a concentrated version of the original, drier fig, I think of Extreme as the dessert version of Premier Figuier, where the sweet notes of coconut and almond are the strongest. This perfume is a decadent treat and a little goes a long way.
I think Gordon Ramsay's "Fig and Frangipane Tart" is a fitting dessert to try, with all the appropriate ingredients: figs, almonds, and cream: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aY0T8Nq07PY
Cherry blossom tree on the University of Washington Quad, Seattle. Photo: Kneale Culbreath
Last week, I wrote about my ridiculous love for waxed paper bags. Either I need to get a life or I get joy from the littlest thing. I like to think it is the latter rather than the former.
I am ready for spring and want to be done with eating stews, roasts, and other cold weather foods. I saw the cherry blossom beginning to bloom on the University of Washington campus and there were cheery yellow daffodils and purple and pink narcissus, full petaled and reminding me of Easter. But it is still early March and Seattle is a tricky city that throws a cold weather curve ball; last week I was wearing my wool coat one day, carrying my umbrella the next, then watching bare-armed colleagues walk into the office the following morning, looking totally comfortable. I am busily applying self-tanner nightly, wondering if my feet are ready for sandals and coral pedicures.
One way I like to bring spring in early is to cook things that remind me that warm weather is coming soon. Usually in winter the thought of a salad leaves me cold- it is just too chilly to get excited over chilled lettuces and icy dressings. Root vegetables are a great compromise between winter and spring. These vegetables remind us of what is available in the cooler months and this salad gives us a hint of flavors to come in the spring. One of my favorite winter vegetables to cook are beets. I love their earthy and honeyed flavor. Beets are easygoing and can be delicious served with just salt and pepper but I think they welcome a good punch of sharp vinegar or lemon and lots of fresh herbs- beets are so candy-sweet, they can take it. Years ago, a friend served me the best beet salad I have ever had: it was full summer and Tanya had roasted young asparagus with beets and then topped them with toasted walnuts and a balsamic vinaigrette. This is an end of winter tribute to her salad.
Note: this recipe is a rough one, meaning if you are a stickler for measuring, please refer to your favorite vinaigrette recipe. I roasted some beets in olive oil and then dressed them in a mustard vinaigrette while still warm. This salad can be eaten warm or cold.
Roasted Beet Salad with Walnuts, Feta and Dijon Mustard Vinaigrette (serves 2-4)
4 medium-sized beets, washed and scrubbed
Olive oil
Dijon mustard
Balsamic vinegar, sherry vinegar, or lemon juice, your preference
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Handful of fresh parsley, roughly chopped
Handful of walnuts, roughly chopped
1/4 c of feta cheese, cut into small cubes
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Make a foil packet for the beets: place a large square of foil on a cookie sheet and place the beets on top. Dress the beets with a good drizzle of olive oil, enough to coat them. Wrap the beets up in the foil (not too tightly, you want them to have room in the foil to sweat) and roast in the oven for 35-45 minutes or until you can pierce the skin of the beet easily. Make room for the walnuts on the same cookie sheet as the beets: you can toast them on the same cookie sheet with the beets- just take them out after toasting in the oven for 8-10 minutes.
The beets should feel slightly soft but not mushy. This may take longer than 45 minutes, depending on the size of your beets. Leave the beets to cool in the foil until you can handle them. While the beets are cooling, you can toast the walnuts in a cast iron pan on the stove over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the walnuts smell fragrant. Do not let them burn.
I usually put on a pair of kitchen gloves reserved for jobs like this to avoid having beet-soaked fingers: using a paring knife, pare away the beet skin, taking off the knobby beet ends and tops, too. Chop the beets up into small cubes- not fine dice but you want the pieces to be small. Place the beets in a medium bowl and set aside.
To make a vinaigrette, I usually do a ratio of 3:1 oil to acid. In a glass jar or measuring cup, place 3 generous heaping tablespoons of Dijon mustard. Add 2 tablespoons of your favorite acid- I used white balsamic vinegar. Slowly stir in the olive oil, a little at a time, until the sauce is emulsified and everything is nicely blended. Season with a pinch of sea salt and lots of freshly ground pepper. Pour over the beets. Add the chopped parsley, feta, and scatter the walnuts over the top. Stir gently. If you do refrigerate the salad to eat later, bring it out of the fridge 15 minutes or so before serving to take the chill off. You could also pile it on a baguette with tuna for a great sandwich or serve alongside roast chicken. This is a salad to mark the end of winter, or think of it as a hint of spring and the bounty to come.
Variation: If you prefer a creamier cheese, use goat cheese instead. The goat cheese will make for a gentler-tasting salad.
Here's Nirvana's "In Bloom." I love that the band shows their sense of humor and can mock both themselves and early 60's variety shows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbgKEjNBHqM
I detest plastic bags. There. I've said it. OK, they are great for freezing food and carrying your toiletries on airplanes, but I hate them for how wasteful they are and how greasy they get after being used even once. Sure, you can reuse them, but have you tried to reuse a just-washed plastic bag? They are expensive and bad for the environment. Parchment paper gets all the love. Parchment paper can be used for baking in place of greasing cookie sheets and cake pans, is great for baking fish en papillote or chicken with vegetables and broth, but I have discovered a kitchen tool that is just as useful: waxed paper bags. Not waxed paper. Waxed paper bags. Ah, waxed paper. You probably haven't given it much thought since you last took a sandwich for lunch as a kid. I am a huge waxed paper fan and use it for everything from baking to wrapping up leftovers and snacks. I recently discovered a great product that I'd never seen before moving to green-minded Seattle this past summer: waxed paper bags. They make green versions of these out of brown paper but I found the Waxtex ones at my local grocery store.
They are square waxed paper sleeves, similar to the paper wrappers used for pastries at the bakery. Try using these bags instead of plastic when putting together lunches; they are perfect for containing vegetables, cookies, nuts, or leftover pizza. I discovered the best use for these waxed paper bags: for keeping cheese fresh. Plastic wrap is the enemy of cheese and it is your duty as a cheese purchaser to free the cheese from the stifling plastic wrap. If you spend good money on a piece of Parmigiano Reggiano, doesn't it deserve some love? The plastic basically suffocates the cheese, which must be treated like a living organism- it needs space and air to breathe. Unwrap your piece of Cheddar or wedge of Maytag Blue and wrap it first in a waxed paper bag (it can breathe now!) and then into a glass or plastic container for storage in the refrigerator. I have noticed that cheeses stored in these waxed paper bags stay fresher for much longer. I tend to keep all my cheeses in individual bags within a glass container, and the bags make everything easier to access. From kitchen wallflower to kitchen staple.
I learned how to wrap a sandwich using waxed paper when I was a child. My grandfather was a chef and he may have been the first one to show me how to do this but it was most likely my mother. I love these waxed paper bags for how useful they are.
Like the waxed paper bags, I love this song, a favorite from childhood. It is the classic tune "You've Make Me So Very Happy" written by Brenda Holloway and Berry Gordy. Holloway wrote "Every Little Bit Hurts," and other soul hits. This was originally a Motown hit on the Tamla label. I grew up with the Blood, Sweat, and Tears version and love it because it reminds me of Burt Bacharach- I have a ridiculous love for Bacharach's music and anything with horns. As sung by Blood, Sweat, and Tears, it is a hurdy-gurdy of a tune. David Clayton-Thomas has a voice that is rich and masculine- it is the perfect compliment to Holloway's version. Find the original version on YouTube and see what you think of the two songs. Enjoy the song and then go get yourself some waxed paper bags.
Hellebores in bloom at Anacortes, Washington. Photo by Kneale Culbreath
This week, I thought it would be fun to share some of my obsessions with you.
Product: I love painting my nails and I like to use Sunday nights to pick a color, watch the Oscars or something Masterpiece Theater-ish, and think about the week ahead. The newest addition to my nail kit: Karma Organic Nail Polish Remover. It is an organic, soy-based nail polish remover that smells deliciously of lavender instead of headache-inducing acetone. The remover takes nail polish off easily and I think my nails feel like they are in better condition instead of dry and stripped. Yes, it's more expensive-$12 for a 4-ounce glass bottle- but you deserve to no longer inhale formaldehyde.
Teatime: Do you know about Remedy Teas on 15th Street in Seattle? Imagine a small and peaceful space done in calming white and green, where you can pick from over 150 organic teas along with tea smoothies, cookies, and sandwiches- Pesto Cream or Nutella Crisp, anyone? I spent two hours lingering with a friend and a pot of coconut chai, a green tea blend. There is something there for everyone, including vegan and gluten-free options. I love the idea of bringing more ritual to the everyday and this is the perfect spot to slow down for a bit. http://remedyteas.com/
Reading: I love candy, the more old-fashioned, the better: malted milk balls, Hershey's kisses, and the truly old-school Choward's Violet Mints, which make your breath smell like iris and Parma violet perfume. I also love a good story. The Trebor Story by Matthew Crampton, is the tale of the Trebor candy company, a family-run institution that created not just candy but an entire culture. It is a fascinating story, complete with beautiful photos and illustrations.
Watching: I am always late to the party but thanks to good friends Sarah and Martin, have become completely obsessed with Paul Abbott's television series "Shameless," the UK edition. If you want to discover everything you need to know about life on a Manchester council estate, please go and find "Shameless" on Netflix. Paul Abbott is a hero of mine and wrote the brilliant BBC series "State of Play." Shameless is nothing like "State of Play," except it is also set in Manchester. But like "State of Play," Abbott's "Shameless" is full of characters you fall in love with. It is smart, heartbreakingly sad, funny, and bitter. The show's sharp, honest writing inspires me to always want to be a better writer.
Listening to: I am waiting for Johnny Marr's The Messenger, which
will be released this Tuesday. I will report back next week. In the
meantime, here's a song which shows off Marr's work with the English
band, The Cribs, "We Share the Same Skies": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DbcAl3EbIs
It is the spring of 1974- I know this because I am in third grade and it is right before my parents separated. School was what felt normal, when I would still walk the five blocks to school with my younger brother. This was before I switched schools, left my friends and my Westmount neighborhood and moved to Old Montreal.
One of my last memories of my childhood before my parents got divorced was a film screening at school. All of the students from kindergarten to grade five were packed into the auditorium to watch a screening of the 1968 film of the musical, "Oliver." This film had a profound affect on me and has stayed with me all my life. I have Charles Dickens and the Carol Reed film to thank for introducing me to my lifelong interest in the depiction of class culture in England. In fact, I can trace my obsession with England to first seeing the cityscape of London in "Oliver." A few months ago, I bought the original soundtrack from iTunes and found myself listening to it and crying at how familiar each song was. I have always cried easily over music that moved me. The first notes of "Who Will Buy?" took me back to the small auditorium in Montreal, surrounded by my classmates and teachers. Nancy (Shani Wallis) singing to Oliver completely captivated me. I recently learned that Oliver's singing part was sung by Kathe Green, because Mark Lester (Oliver) apparently could not sing. The song is sung in a call and response round-style, with each street vendor singing a different part: flower seller, fruit vendor, knife sharpener, milkmaid, each voice playing off the other. The song is plaintive and heart-rending. Like any good piece, it is not all sweet but full of dark moments, too. At times it is not the joyous song you expect and has a bittersweet edge. The musical showcases what a vibrant piece it is, set like a period city ballet.
"Oliver" provided me with a chance to revisit a time in my childhood. Of course, listening to the soundtrack and watching the film as an adult, I realize I have the same problems with some of the scenes that I did when I was little: Fagin's racist depiction as a money-hungry Jew is truly awful. Oliver witnessing Nancy's death at the hands of Bill (Oliver Reed) is still the single most terrifying scene of any movie I can think of. I think I was too young to have seen this as a child and wish for some modern editing- but at the same time, the film was intensely joyful and painful at the same time, something I am glad to have experienced.
Watching the "Who Will Buy" video clip as an adult, I caught something I had not noticed as a child: the only people who can truly enjoy the day are Oliver and his fellow well-dressed, wealthy neighbors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11x9V1OyKpg
I watch it now and think, 'How would you have any time to sing or dance if you were busy beating carpets, cleaning houses, and nannying for the rich?' The tune describes wrapping up the day in a box to remember- these words have always stayed with me. Is your friendship a memory box or something active that you can work on, letting it evolve? I think movies, music, and friendship got me through the time of my parents divorce. Movies were a way for me to experience enormous emotions without having to talk about them. I do not even know if I had the words to express the tumult of feelings inside me at the time. Movies provided a safe haven, even if there were big emotions expressed, pain and sadness and heartache.
I had the chance to revisit my childhood this weekend with a visit to Vancouver, where I saw my oldest friend- we met when we were six and had not seen each other since we were fifteen. Another opportunity to experience a safe haven of emotional comfort and connection.
Original poster for "Oliver." Note: The film excerpt available on YouTube has Spanish subtitles.
Courtesy Doris Duke Charitable Foundation Historical Archives Special Collections Library, Duke University
There have been a recent spate of books celebrating introverts. Books with titles like The Introvert Advantage: How to Thrive in an Extrovert World; The Introvert's Way: Living a Quiet Life in a Noisy World, and Quiet: The Power of Introverts in a World That Can't Stop Talking. I am surely amongst many to get up and cheer - albeit silently- as I am an introvert. I love spending time with others but it is by spending time alone that I am able to re-energize, ponder, get good ideas, muster through things, write, and get my most creative work done. I am always inspired to learn of other introverts, famous or not- people who are puttering around, working out ideas and trying to better themselves and the world around them. I have decided that famous philanthropist Doris Duke (1912-1993) was clearly an introvert, someone who was happier making things happen from behind the scenes, someone who never wanted to be in the spotlight. Duke let her actions speak for her. It is difficult to underestimate her influence. I admire how a private person was able to do so much in her lifetime and beyond. I was thinking about the idea of custodianship and the long-held notion
of the wealthy using their fortunes to help others. Doris Duke lived
this principle. In "Downton Abbey," the Earl of Grantham, Robert
Crawley, says to his family: "...My fortune is the work of others who
laboured to build a great dynasty. Do I have the right to destroy their
work or impoverish that dynasty? I am a custodian, my dear, not an
owner. I must strive to be worthy of the task I've been set." Duke was
more than worthy of her task as a cultural, humanitarian and civic
custodian. Stewardship. Philanthropy. Environmental protection. Child
welfare. Animal welfare. Medical research. Doris Duke was a visionary.
It is unfortunate that she is no longer alive- I imagine she would be
very happy with how her money has been spent. Duke was an unusual woman
for her time and perhaps because of her wealth
had little concern for social conventions- after all, she had more
money than anyone else (her nickname since childhood was "the richest
girl in the world") and she could do what she wanted. Her legacy
is one of impressive wealth used to benefit millions of people whom she
did not know. For Duke, creating public programs and giving money away
was perhaps an introvert's way to develop community and to feel
connected to others. The idea of legacy and programs which continue long
after she was gone means that she is forever linked to strangers and
people she could never know personally or meet face-to-face. Perhaps
this is the ultimate introvert dream: to help others, but from a safe
distance through history, or through public works, buildings, arts
programs, and medical research.
I am inspired by her as someone who shared her vision of a
better world in a quietly powerful way. Originally I wanted to focus on Doris Duke and the architecture of her house, Shangri La, in Honolulu, Hawaii. Shangri La is a dream destination for me made even more fascinating by learning about Duke and her far-reaching humanitarian, artistic, and environmental efforts. Duke transformed her private home into what is now the Center for Islamic Arts and Cultures, containing the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art. I wanted to know more about what would inspire Duke to create an
architectural monument and to fill it full of Middle Eastern art. Duke is a model of an
introvert capable of enormous, public acts of generosity and
stewardship. Duke was the well-known private philanthropist, environmentalist, art collector, and preservationist who spent her entire life giving money away. She rarely granted interviews. Over the course of her lifetime, Duke gave away approximately $400 million dollars. The Doris Duke Foundation is currently estimated to be valued at over $1.6 billion dollars. I was inspired by these numbers to learn about the elusive benefactor of so many meaningful programs. English author James Hilton coined the term Shangri La in his book, Lost Horizon. It refers to an imaginary land set in the mountains of Tibet. I am fond of mixing seemingly disparate ideas and thought I would include the magnificent Kinks song of the same name. The opening of "Shangri La" is a chance to appreciate Ray Davies's beautiful voice, guitar, and horns. The song meanders through melodic changes which remind me of many 60's pop anthems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt0IXkIVvo4 I love a good story song, especially one that gently mocks middle class values and aspiration, done as only The Kinks can. Davies creates the portrait of an ordinary man who attempts to insulate himself in his house as protection from the worries of the outside world: bill-paying, a new car, a mortgage, the stress of everyday life. "Too scared to think about how insecure you are/ Life ain't so happy in your little Shangri-la…" I included this song because Duke certainly never had any of the concerns of living in a tidy suburb, bill-paying, or a mortgage, but her private life was messy- money may have made her life easier but it did not protect her from great sadness. Shangri La was a sanctuary for her. It is lovely to imagine her enjoying a moment of peace, much-deserved, for all of her hard work. Introverts need a place of respite and Shangri La was such a place for Duke. Shangri La exemplifies all that Doris Duke represents: her wide-ranging
interest in valuing diverse cultures and people, protecting green
spaces, and giving as many people as possible access to art and culture
that they might not otherwise know about.
Powder compact belonging to Doris Duke. Image courtesy of The Newport Restoration Foundation.
